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Desi Diva

By Shilpa Arora

Saris: The Mystery Unraveled

For one of her most famous dance numbers in the classic 80s Bollywood flick Mr. India, Sridevi wears a sky blue chiffon sari that flutters enticingly and clings to all the right places during a memorable rain sequence. It was no accident that the director wanted her to don a sari for the scene; for ages, saris have been the perfect ensemble to show off a woman's charms without revealing much at all.


Whether you have a penchant for luscious silks or practical cotton fabrics, saris are a fabulous way to glam up an occasion and stand out from the crowd. Endless choices of colors, fabrics, and textures make it easy to choose one that suits your mood. If you’re feeling soft and feminine, go for a chiffon number in a soft pastel shade. On the other hand, if you’re searching for something with more edge, choose from chiffon, crepe, silk or georgette. And don’t forget to consider patterns: rhinestones, beadwork, block print and embroidery always add pizzazz.

In addition to the sari itself, there are two pieces you’ll need to complete the look: a matching blouse and a petticoat. The blouse, usually made of identical fabric as the sari, should be close fitting – a loose blouse won’t work. Often the blouse will have identical work to the sari’s pallu, which is the portion of the sari that has the highest concentration of design work. Generally saris of a thicker fabric (including silk and brocade) require a blouse of at least similar fabric, while chiffon saris can look stylish and elegant with a simple cotton blouse. The petticoat, usually cotton as well, should be ankle length and threaded with an elastic or thin cotton band. It should be tight enough so that the sari does not slip when tucked into the petticoat. Most importantly, the petticoat should not be visible through or beneath the sari.

Your sari should fall just above the ground, so before putting it on, make sure to have on the shoes you’ll be wearing so that you get an accurate idea of how long the sari should be. (The easiest way to spot a sari novice is by checking out the length of her sari – if it doesn’t cover much of the shoe, especially the heel, it isn’t quite right.) Besides dictating the length, having shoes on while putting on your sari will give the right drape to the sari’s pleats.

The Sari Skinny
Whether you’re wearing one for the first time or just need a refresher course, here are some guidelines to ensure all eyes will stay locked on you.

1. Standing in front of the mirror with shoes on, tuck the inner edge of the sari (not the edge with the pallu) into the petticoat.



Model: Madhurima Chodha.
Photography by Madhu Chodha.

2. Wrap the sari around your body twice, being careful to make sure the height is even all the way around. Remember that your shoes, especially the heels, should not show. It’s helpful to have someone else who can adjust the back for you.

3. Take the other end of the sari (the end with the pallu) and put it over your left shoulder. Adjust it according to how long you would like it to hang. Usually a few inches above or below the knee is a good height.

4. Begin making the pleats. You’ll probably make about 5 or 6, usually around four inches. Arrange them so that they are equally spaced and tuck them into petticoat, slightly toward the left. You might want to secure the pleats with a safety pin. (If you’re headed for a night of dancing, the safety pin is a must.)

 

5. Make sure the lower portion of the pleats is also evenly spaced and just above the ground. Each individual pleat should look like a neat line running from the top to the bottom.

6. Adjust the bodice of the sari so that the border runs from under your right underarm and over the bust. The bodice should be secure enough that it won’t droop when you move – a revealed bust is the biggest sari faux pas and will turn your look from temptress to trashy in seconds.

7. Pin the edge of the pallu to your blouse just behind your left shoulder.

Worn correctly, a sari can flatter just about any shape – hourglass, pear and everything in between.

 



Shilpa Arora is a freelance writer based in Northern California. She has written several articles related to fashion, health and fitness.


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