Feature

By Rashmi Agarwal, MSPH and Roopal Pujara, PsyD

Watch Out for Black Henna!

The art of mehndi or henna art has been practiced for centuries. For many South Asian women, henna is the beautiful adornment of the hands and feet of a bride and her female family members and friends in celebration of upcoming wedding nuptials. Henna is believed to bring good health, prosperity, and happiness to the couple as they begin their life partnership. Henna tattoos have also become increasingly popular in Western society as a temporary fashion statement or as means for self-expression (without the long-term commitment!). Unfortunately, along with this popularity has come a corruption of the henna that is traditionally used—a newer version commonly called “black henna” is on the loose and can cause harmful and at times long-lasting damage.

Understanding the Differences and the Damage

Henna dye is derived from the leaves of the henna plant Lawsonia Inermis. There are two major types of henna. Natural, pure henna turns a shade of orange to reddish-brown when applied to the skin and usually takes several hours to dry. Most individuals do not have adverse reactions to pure henna. Catherine Cartwright- Jones, moderator of www.hennapage.com, is pursuing her doctorate in geography with a focus on henna, and has served as a consultant on the topic of henna for the Discovery Channel, Fox, BBC, and National Geographic. Cartwright-Jones says that “pure henna can be regarded as extremely safe for most individuals.” She explains that adverse reactions to pure henna are rare, and when they do occur, reactions include rash, tightness in the chest, and intense itching as opposed to the more extreme reactions to black henna.

Black henna, which can be dangerous, stains the skin jet black and often dries very quickly—between several minutes to an hour. Most black henna contains an added chemical called para-phenylenediamine, which is also known as PPD and often used in hair dyes. Reactions to PPD can include itching, blisters, burning, and open sores. According to www.hennapage.net, approximately 20% of people exposed to black henna may have an allergic reaction, such as contact dermatitis. Extreme reactions such as asthma, renal failure, liver cancer, and death have also been linked to PPD usage. Statistics on the probability of these extreme reactions are not widely available. However, these reactions can occur even with one-time use.

Henna (pure or black) is approved only for use as a hair dye and not for skin application by the United States Food and Drug Administration (FDA). According to the FDA, products used exclusively by professionals such as henna artists working at salons, street fairs, or festivals are not bound by the Fair Packaging and Labeling Act and these products do not have to declare ingredients. Additionally, some henna artists may be unaware of the dangers of black henna. We talked to a henna artist in the District of Columbia who insisted that both pure and black henna are very safe. She uses whichever type of henna her client requests.

So how can you as a consumer work on beautifying and protecting yourself at the same time? Look at the color of the paste being used, and ask what color the stain will be, and how long you should leave on the henna. If the artist is using a jet black paste, indicates the tattoo will stain jet black, and tells you it will dry in a short amount of time, more than likely the artist is using dangerous black henna, which contains PPD.

If you are planning a henna party and making your own henna, you may want to test whether the henna powder you have purchased is pure or black. According to www.hennapage.com, pure henna powder is usually green, smells like hay or spinach, and if mixed with water, will turn brown. This is the henna that should be used for temporary tattoos.

Conversely, black henna powder mixed with PPD is usually black or dark brown, may or may not have a chemical smell, and if mixed with water, turns black. This henna is dangerous and may cause harm if applied to the skin.

Get Help if You Have a Reaction to PPD

So, what do you do if you have gotten a black henna tattoo and have a reaction to PPD? If you find that you are having any discomfort after the tattoo application such as itching, blistering, or notice that your tattoo is extremely dark, you should contact your doctor immediately. Many physicians are unfamiliar with PPD skin reactions, so it is in your best interest to come prepared. The website http://www.hennapage.com/henna/ppd/gotodoctor.html has a printable information page which details the chemical make up of black henna, how to recognize the danger signs of a PPD reaction, guides for diagnosis, treatment options, and links to relevant articles you can bring to your physician. Cartwright-Jones warns that “individuals who have a reaction to black henna should avoid synthetic hair dye (with PPD) again because usage could lead to a life threatening situation.”

As temporary henna tattoos continue to grow in popularity, the risk of black henna finding its way to your local salon or street fair will undoubtedly increase. However, there are ways in which you can work to protect yourself and the community at large. Know your henna artist – look for a henna artist that has been certified through the International Certification for Natural Henna Arts. Find an artist through a friend or family referral. Ask questions of your artist to see if he or she is aware of the differences between pure and black henna, and if in doubt, resist the impulse, and step away from the artist! If you have been a victim of a black henna tattoo you can contact the FDA to file a complaint or write a letter to local and federal officials asking them to fight for disclosure of ingredients on products sold to professionals.

As you look for ways to magnify your natural beauty, remember to be cautious— a temporary tattoo mixed with PPD may not be so pretty.

The dangers of black henna are not widely known. If you have any uncertainty, please see a doctor.

Rashmi Agarwal, MSPH is a healthcare analyst in Washington, DC.

Roopal Pujara, PsyD is a licensed clinical psychologist in Chicago.

Back to Top